Katy's Asia Adventures (plus Mexico!)

A haphazard chronicle of my inevitable misadventures during a year in Vietnam and points east.

p.s. I'll be pitifully grateful if you send me email during my exile: TravelerKaty@hotmail.com

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Thursday, March 02, 2006
 
Day 9 - Extra Photos

Since I haven't decided what to write to wrap up this little vacation, here are a few extra photo for your viewing pleasure today!


Mom is fortunate to have so much packing assistance.




Sunday Brunch at the Camino Real in Puebla.



Mini tortilla factory in Cholula. It's hard to see, but there's a Help Wanted sign behind her -- another job opportunity for me!


View from town of the Cholula pyramid and church on top.



Now that's a fruit basket!



Top of the Spriral Pyramid at Xochitecatl.



This one was taken from the top of the Spiral Pyramid. If you look very closely, you can see mom under that tree reading her book.





Why use a blanket when the dog chow bag is the perfect size?


(c) 2006 Katy Warren


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Wednesday, March 01, 2006
 
Day 8 - Part 3 - Tlaxcala 2/18/06

We took another shot at Tlaxcala city in the afternoon, hitting the overwhelming local Saturday market and doing some final shopping in the craft market just off the zocalo. The difference in atmosphere was interesting. The vast local market encompassed a huge high-ceilinged permanent structure and all of the surrounding streets for blocks around. According to Yair, very good prices are available for everything from luggage to lingere to refrigerator magnets to tripe, and in the early morning agricultural goods are sold wholesale. As a result, the presence of the big local market reportedly keeps prices down all over town. As A commented, it's the Wal-Mart of Tlaxcala.

The vendors at the market really wanted to move product, too, with loud and persistent sales pitches for any and all products. Did they really think a gringa with a camera was going to want to purchase a two kilo bag of meat or a clothes hamper? Issues of reality and practicality did nothing to dissuade them from their sales efforts. They obviously had no desire to re-pack unsold merchandise for the trip back home.

By contrast, the vendors of the craft market were so laid back I feared some might fall asleep during a transaction. And although we were ideal customers -- tourists on their last day in Mexico with pesos remaining and next Christmas to think about -- most seemed to have very little interest in our presence. The ones who did, however, had a very good day. Products purchased, errands run, a final Moka FriOreo Frappe (sob!) consumed, we headed back to the Zocalo only to witness a very strange performance by a group of drunken, dancing Sasquatches whipping the sidewalk in unison. Yeah, I don't know either.

We returned to our sunny little oasis on the hill (see, I'm learning new writing techniques from "Tlaxcala Loves You") to watch the sun set over Mt. Ixtacihuatl and contemplate the depressing prospect of packing and returning to the frozen north.

Some final pictures of Tlaxcala, many of them Mom's:

Tlaxcala's Palace of Justice. As you can see, the Mexicans are not afraid of using color on their buildings.


Need some clothes?


Fighting off the crowds at the craft market.


Check out those fruit baskets! I hate to think of what happens when you take the plastic off.


I'm not quite sure what these sticks are for, but they must be food, right?


Teeth-rotting goodness.


I must say I prefer getting my chicken pre-boned on little styrofoam trays.


And that goes double for pork.



Need to get your beer to the second floor? Why use stairs when you can toss it straight up?



I don't get it either.






© 2006 Katy Warren


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Day 8 - Part 2 - Mexican Home Cooking School
2/18/06

Our final day in the kitchen! I've learned many things from Mom about what pans and appliances and such I have in my kitchen. Frankly, beyond the toaster, saucepan and electric frypan I've never delved too far into the cabinets. You never know what might be lurking in there. Dangerous, raw ingredients, maybe, or unidentifiable cooking apparati. Better to keep those things mysterious.

On to the menu of the day:

Sopa de Lenteja (lentil soup). Honest to god, these soups were so delicious it was enough to make me swear off Campbell's® Healthy Request® condensed. Just throw a bunch of beans and garlic and whatnot in a pot and you've got a whole meal, for crying out loud. It's a revelation.
Mole Poblano. This official Mole, the delicious chocolate and chile sauce, is perhaps the signature dish of the Puebla region but posesses a fatal flaw. It has 21, count 'em, 21 ingredients, including three different kinds of nuts, two seeds, two chiles, mexican chocolate and a plantain, for pity's sake. This is a restaurant meal if I ever saw one.

Arroz con Perejjil (rice with parsley). There was a lovely green color in the rice. Not a great deal of flavor, but it looked great on the plate and was super-easy to make.

Tamales. Crisis!!!! The tamales were surprisingly easy to make -- just dump a bit of tamale dough (very wet stuff) and some salsa and leftover meat or cheese into the cornhusks and steam for a half hour. Sounds so simple, doesn't it? We were scheduled to eat the tamales for dinner, but as the usual dinner hour faded into the distance while we continued to nurse our lethal margaritas, it became obvious that something had gone wrong.

When we finally sat down it was to taquitos, beans and rice instead of tamales. Jon, who had been left in charge of dinner as Estela and Maria deserted him for a family party in Puebla, had found the tamales soaking in the bottom of the pan, rather than sitting in the steamer above the water. After a failed attempt to cook them in the pressure cooker and later in the microwave, and unable to reach Estela by cell phone (helps if it's turned on), he raided the fridge, finding only thef ood intended for breakfast. This was a bit of a disappointment ot us, since mom especially is not a fan of the often heavy flavorless tamales common in the States, and was very much looking forward to trying Estela's Poblano version seeing as all the other food that week was so fabulous. So we hoped something of the damp, beleaguered tamales could be salvaged for breakfast.

It was the next morning when stories began to diverge. According to Jon, Estela took the rap for the disaster and was salvaging what she cood and making new ones as well. According to Estela, whose usual mannerisms of throwing her arms up, rolling her eyes, and smacking her forhead with her palm were very much in evidence here, the tamales from the night before were perfectly fine, not at all undercooked and Jon was a big old drama queen (note: this is a very lose translation, but if Estela had known "drama queen" in English she surely would have used it). Whatever the truth of the situation, we were able to have a whole pile of light, flavorful tamales for breakfast the following morning, so no harm no foul.

Suspiros de Novia (sighs of the bride). Our desert on our final day was a recipe with a nice legend attached. Back in the colonial days when the Spanish colonists took trips back to Spain they would leave wives in the convent (possibly a mistake according to Jon, as the priests were more than willing to, er, console them). Each convent was known for different candies or specialties, and at one convent the lonely wives traditionally made this dessert. While stirring the Karo syrup, lime, cinnamon sticks and sugar over the fire they would sign the name of their absent husband, giving the dish an extra flavor. We tried to get Mom to sigh "Oh, Tom!" while stirring, but she appeared to lack the requisite melancholy. In any efent, the dessert is quite good -- it's hard to go wrong with deep-fried dough covered with Karo and lime syrup. A bit too sweet for me, but then I am a cretin who considers almost any dessert that lacks chocolate to be slightly sub-par. Except those stuffed pastry rolls from earlier in the week -- those were top notch.

Other photos around the MHCS:
What in the hell is this thing? It's sticking up out of the middle of the cactus, a flower 15 feet high!


Mom's room at the MHCS.


Ivonne the smiley gardener and dishwasher at MHCS.

Look how clean and neat everything is before class!


Every day we were at the MHCS more flowers would emerge --
I'd love to return some time in the spring when the grounds would be in full bloom.



© 2006 Katy Warren


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Day 8 - Part 1 - SUNRISE!!!!!

Saturday morning I did something highly out of character. I woke up early and rather than roll over and dream of chiles, I got up to see the sun rise over La Malinche. Yes, the sunrise. The rise of the sun! The beginning of the day! A daily miracle previously unknown to me!

I went outside hoping it would rise already and be done with it so I could get back under the covers. It was damned cold out there, and I don't really believe in suffering for a photo. I'm not much of a sufferer in general, really. Anyway, I'm posting this photo because I was out there for a half hour freezing my ass off. It was so cold I couldn't even write -- I simply huddled geriatrically, wishing I had had the sense to wear socks, and wondered if anyone had ever contracted frostbite in Mexico. You people damned well better appreciate the pain I go through for you.


© 2006 Katy Warren


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