A haphazard chronicle of my inevitable misadventures during a year in Vietnam and points east.

p.s. I'll be pitifully grateful if you send me email during my exile: TravelerKaty@hotmail.com

October 2002 November 2002 December 2002 January 2003 February 2003 March 2003 April 2003 May 2003 June 2003 July 2003 August 2003 September 2003 October 2003 November 2003 February 2006 March 2006 May 2006

 
November 20th is Teachers' Day in Vietnam, a day which purports to demonstrate the high regard in which teachers are held here. Students traditionally bring flowers, small gifts, etc, and schools hold celebratory assemblies to thank teachers for their hard work. It's a very nice idea, though frankly, knowing how little the Vietnamese teachers are paid ($4 an hour) and how they have to scrounge for work at schools all over town to make ends meet, I would venture to guess that most would prefer to be rewarded economically rather than with candy, flowers, stuffed animals and neckties. Or maybe I'm just bitter because all I got from my students were flowers.

Our school opted, apparently, to punish us in honor of Teachers' Day. They cancelled classes all day, which not only meant no kitchy gifts from our students, but also meant that we wouldn't be paid for that day. I teach two classes on Wednesday, so that was 45 much needed dollars not coming to me at the end of this month. We will be teaching those classes eventually, as they've tacked them onto the end of the term like a snow day. However, I need the money now while I am firmly established in Saigon rather in March when I might be taking off for other exotic travel destinations.

Instead of working we were invited to a celebratory "Teachers' Day Tea Party" in the evening. I will concede I got a huge kick out of the invitation agenda -- forty minutes of speeches from school officials and teachers, followed by gift presentation. Then from 6:50 - 7:00 pm were to be allowed time for "Refreshments and Socializing." At seven o'clock things were to get even worse: "Teachers Are Expected to Participate in Singing." So basically they took my income away for the day and rewarded me with forced karaoke.

As it turned out, the experience was not as bad as expected in some ways (I was able to maintain a 30 foot buffer zone between me and the karaoke machine at all times), but worse than expected in others. Things started off pretty well with a traditional dance performed by Vietnamese teachers. Admittedly some of them looked like they were up there at gunpoint, but it was nice nonetheless and they outfits, as usual, were gorgeous. A couple of fairly short, well-prepared speeches followed, then Mr. Nam, my downtrodden-looking boss, apparently decided to scare the shit out of us and remove any semblance of a festive mood from the room.

He proceeded to give a rambling 15 minute speech about the demanding nature of the students, the myriad complaints he receives in his office about poor teachers, how difficult his job is, and how teachers unjustly complain about his decisions. He generally gave the impression that the only thing holding the school back from excellence is the sketchy performance of its teachers. Honestly, I wouldn't have been surprised if he had started naming names and firing people on the spot at that point -- he clearly hates his job, if he chose such an inappropriate setting for this diatribe. As I was leaving the party, Mr. Nam asked me my impressions of his speech. My comment that I found it somewhat "scary and dark" was met with earnest and lengthy assurance that he wasnn't talking about the expat teachers at all. He's probably lying about that, but at least I know my job is secure.

After the speeches and ceremonial gift giving (accomplished in the slowest possible way) and some socializing over French pastries (Lord, the food is good here), I was on my way, carrying my Teachers' Day tin of tea, chocolates, and box of yam cookies. Hmm, yam cookies. I think those may be destined for donation to my friendly neighborhood disabled panhandler.

© 2002 Katy Warren



posted by Katy at 3:19 AM